37. Davenport Ranges & Devils Marbles

DAVENPORT MARSHMELLOWS

By now we had passed over the tropic of Capricorn & finally the nights were no longer freezing. 

DEVILS MARBLES

This was a great stop. So many times you have to walk, trek or scramble to get to the place of interest. Whilst that is often rewarding it was nice to simply pull up & walk straight into this reserve. The heat was really building, the whole area was buzzing with insects & lizards were more prominent.

DEVILS MARBLES & ANTMOUNDS

There are several outcrops of the marbles. Aboriginal legend is that these were the eggs of the great rainbow serpent. The area is also littered with large termite mounds.

36. Alice RFDS & Davenport Ranges NP

RFDS

This visit was really good. The presentation was delivered professionally & really amplified the important role of the Royal Flying Doctor Service. This service was started by Dr Flynn, a true visionary who’s legacy is appreciated by all of the outback.

DAVENPORT RANGES

What a find. 99% of those that travel this land use a book that is referred to as ‘the bible’. Normally it gives a very good description of places that one can stay along the way. In this instance we followed the bible & pulled into what was stated as a great stop off. It was not. We decided to head a little further north a see what might turn up. I spotted a small deviation a said to Kaz that we would follow it for a couple of ‘k’s & see what we can find. With nightfall not too far away we found this little gem. It was to date one of the most beautiful night stopovers. Hre we were smack bang in the middle of nowhere. We had a magnificent sunset & at about 4:00am I woke & looked out my window to see an equally remarkable moon set. Sometimes you just snag it.

DAVENPORT ISOLATION

It really is special to be able to pull up in total isolation. Out here the sun really does set quickly & when it does it is dark, extremely dark. If the moon is out it is like daylight, without it, you cannot see your outstretched hand.

 

35. Alice Springs Reptile Centre

ALICE SPRINGS REPTILE CENTRE

This is a must do if ever in Alice. It is very small & one can get real close to the creatures.

OLIVE PYTHON

Dano with this beautiful Olive Python. These snakes like the forested areas & will hunt at night. Whilst this bloke has been reared in captivity, a wild snake could do a lot of damage. They have seven rows of very sharp teeth that are angled inward so that once they have hold of their prey, it is very difficult for the victim to escape. That said they are best observed but do not try to handle.

‘BLUEY’

Matt & friend.

34. Red Centre

‘BEARDIE’

Dano absolutely loves reptiles & it still amazes Kaz & I how willingly he handles them. The weather was starting to warm up & we spotted this Bearded Dragon sunning itself on the warm bitumen. Dano had only minutes before asked; ‘how fast can a beardie run’. After handling this one for a short time he asked again of their speed. We said put him down a let’s have a look. The beardie stalled for a moment & then took off . To answer Danes question I estimate these fella’s can reach about 25kms p/hr.

RED CENTRE

ALICE SPRINGS BUDDY

Dano & this guy really hit it off.

33. West MacDonnell Ranges

ELERY CREEK BIG HOLE

This area was the home of the famous aboriginal artist Albert Namitjira. Albert’s story is that he was an assistant to a white artist and would go out into the wilderness carrying the artists’ tools of trade. On one occasion  the artist asked of Albert (whilst showing him the painting he had just completed): ‘so what do you think of that?’. Albert’s reply was , ‘not bad, but I could do a better job of it’. With that the white artist allowed Albert to have a go & the rest is history. Albert was considered a master of watercolours & was invited to attend several functions that in those days were only for the privilege of a white man. He was in fact the first aboriginal to vote, to drive a car or be allowed into a pub.

  STANLEY CHASM

A magnificent chasm. The walls are about 4 metres apart & extend vertically to a height of 40 or 50 metres. It is a pretty rough track to get to the chasm. The track follows the creek that is responsible for the chasm’s formation. It is however worth the walk; the memories will always stay with you. 

STANLEY DINGO

Unfortunately the purebred dingo is becoming rarer due to inbreeding with other wild dogs. After leaving Stanley Chasm we found this fella, maybe not 100%, but pretty bloody close. He was very cautious and I just managed to snap him as he payed us a quick glance before disappearing into the scrub.

32. West MacDonnell Ranges

GLEN HELEN DINGO

Local Dingo on the hunt along the fringes of the Glen Helen Creek.

GLEN HELEN CREEK

Another magnificent gorge. There are several in this area. The gorges were formed after hundreds of thousands of years of erosion.

OCHRE PITS

The Ochre Pits are an area  where the erosion of the landscape has revealed  rich ochre clays once hidden within a small hill. This is a fascinating story in that the ochre found here was considered to be of the finest quality & was traded amongst various aboriginal tribes. It has been discovered  for example that the area around Uluru does not contain suitable ochre to have created the rock art & that the ochre used was indeed from these ochre pits.  Considering that Uluru is some 400kms away it shows the  high regarded the people had for this oche.

31. West MacDonnel Ranges

MERRINEE DRIVE

This drive begins at Kings Canyon & extends almost to Alice. The road is approx 250kms of dirt, sand, rock & corrugations. The road trains don’t give way or slow down & no one expects them too. Often you may see one approaching from 5kms away; cloaked in a veil of red dust. 

ESCARPMENT VIEWS

In the distance we leave the grandeur of Kings Canyon and begin another dusty trek through the West MacDonnell Ranges.

THE MERRINEE LOOP

Often when travelling the Outback one has to make a decision; do we take the hard road or the bitumen?. In this case the Merrinee loop is approx 400 kms lesser distance to Alice Springs that that of the bitumen road. Along this road the landscape is ever changing & for the people that have any interest in Geology, the West MacDonnell Ranges are a living treasure;  a vivid, distinct account, absolutely uninterrupted display of the history of the land within this area

30. Creek Trail - Dano

VALLEY TREK

Two young locals had just started a guided tour walk of the valley floor. We thought we would give it a go & it was great. These blokes show you edible plants, native tobacco trees, explain how various species of trees are of importance, tell dreamtime stories and had a great laugh with the boys.

 

CANYON FLOOR

Whilst Uluru is supremely the finest single monument, it is also the most visited. Kings Canyon is not only beautiful;  it is tranquil, serene & there are no crowds.

 

THE MILKSHAKE COWBOY

Dano relaxing after an afternoon milkshake at Kings.

29. Uluru - Kings Canyon

ULURU FRIENDS

On the road we have met many nomads; mainly people older than ourselves. Here we met up with a family from Tannum Sands (south of Gladstone) whom like ourselves had sold up a hit the adventure trail.

  ULURU SUNSRET 3

Kaz & I enjoying our experience of the rock

KINGS CANYON HELI FLIGHT

After Uluru we decide to stay in the desert & ventured to Kings Canyon. This is a remarkable area in that after the endless flat lands the Canyon marks the edge of a landscape that was upheaved millions of years ago.

Matt & Dane were offered a complimentary flight that was organised by a local whom with her partner provide entertainment to guests each night. They are known as the ‘Roadies’. Once again the people of the outback show how caring they are.

 

28. Rock Art - Sunset Over Rock

ANCIENT ART 

Kaz has an appreciation for art & this is something that you won’t find in galleries; this was our first taste of authentic aboriginal rock art.

ULURU SUNSET

Sunset at the rock is something that you just have to experience. Once again; the sheer size, colour & aura is something that no camera can capture.

ULURU SUNSET 2

We got set up early (around 4:30 -5:00pm) to witness another sunset over the world’s largest monolith. It changes every few minutes & it is a great afternoon. I considered how many sunsets this monument had endured, how many storms had ravaged it’s exposed faces. In the middle of this vast desert it is striking and almost appears as two dimensional as if it was stuck there as a prop for some eccentric movie director.

27. Waterhole - Kangaroo Tail

DANO AT SOUTSIDE WATERHOLE

KANGAROO TAIL 

The boys seen at the famed ‘Kangarroo Tail’

 

26. Kata Tjuta - Uluru.

DEEP GORGES

Through this gorge the wind absolutely rips along the valley floor. The height of the peaks are actually higher than Uluru and the enormity is something that the camera does not capture. Within the valley, is a stream that has provided the locals for thousands of years and is home to some plants that are found nowhere else on earth.

ULURU SOUTHSIDE

On our first afternoon at the rock we explored the southside. This side is the lesser visited area of the rock. It is truly beautiful with many variances in texture & colour as well as waterholes  & great walking tracks.

ULURU WATERHOLE

Dano & I on a pathway that leads to a magnificent waterhole that is feed from  waterfall that runs from the top of the rock. There are also several caves some of which contain ancient artworks.

25. Uluru - Kata Tjuta

PURE ULURU 

The locals prefer that the rock is not climbed as it is a very sacred place. In some locations it is even forbidden for women to enter. I have respect for the Aboriginals & admire their culture & subsequently agreed not to climb the rock & in particular enter their sacred areas. 

GC seen on the southern face (not within an area considered ‘off – limits’)

  KATA TJUTA – The Olgas

The Olgas are approximately 40 kms west of Uluru. These also are a very sacred area to the Aboroginal people & the entire area is a ‘Man’s Place’ & is entirely off limits to all aboriginal women.

The Olgas was a great place to visit & a place that was everything that I had ever imagined. For me it was of great reward to witness the enormity of her gorges and sheer peaks, a place that I had wanted to visit since my early school years.

24. Kulgera, Uluru

Kulgera

The first stop in the NT. Kaz is managing to keep her taught figure whilst Matt is really starting to put on  a little beef.

ULURU

We finally make it to the feature monument  of the Red Centre. We have all grown through our lives to see countless images of ‘The Rock’; but it is truly one of nature’s masterpieces that should be seen up close & personal be all Aussies.

 

SOUTHSIDE

Dano on the southside of Uluru.

Coober Pedy Cup 2

THE LADIES PAVILLION

Kaz, some German tourists we met & local girl enjoying the sophistication of the Ladies pavilion.

 

THE FARMER WANTS A WIFE

Its, dusty, its hot, & should you fall, the earth is hard; these guys race with little personal protection & go flat chat. It was a real privilege to watch them strut their stuff.

EGG & SPOON RACE

No spoons here though; you start about two metres opposite your playing partner & throw the egg. Those that are successful (ie, don’t drop it) move back another pace, & so on. The finalists ended up about 20m apart.

Kaz & Dane are pictured closest to the rail.

  COOBER PEDY ARTS CENTRE

Matt seen with some tapping sticks. The art here was authentic & was very nice.

Coober Pedy Cup

CALCUTTA

As the Cup is not a registered horse race you are unable to punt, however they run a Calcutta whereby one may bid for a particular horse. Each horse is offered via an auction , the highest bidder then owns that horse (just for the race). The winner collects 50% of the purse, second place 20%, third place 10% & the remaining 10% goes to charity. As Matt is a keen punter we thought we might be able to buy a horse for twenty or thirty bucks; but crickey, these locals were really pumped up for the big day of their year and were buying horses for up to $2500.0......... “sorry Matt”

 

LOCALS

The locals really turn up a get into the activities of the Cup weekend

 

BARREL RACES

We asked the event manager if we could get up close as the cowboys went about their work in the barrel races. It was a real treat & the boys could really feel & hear the beat of the hooves, the cry from the jockey urging his or her mount & the crack of the whips.

These guys race real hard & at one point there was not a second between seven riders.

Coober Pedy

COOBER PEDY

What a unique town this.  On the outskirts we ran out of fuel (nearly made it). Whilst i was topping up with the reserve cans a voice yelled “hey, com up here”. We got talking to an old German guy whom had decided to go for a look around 36 years ago & explore a bit of Oz. He’s still here at Coober Pedy today. That’s the type of people that make up Coober. The people here are friendly & seem to take life in their stride & don’t take much to seriously.

 

LIVING UNDERGROUND

Almost all inhabitants of Coober live underground. The temperature in summer so we were told will be 46 – 50 degrees for two or three weeks straight. The underground homes, churches, opal shops & motels keep an average temp of 23 degrees throughout this hot period.

Coober Pedy is dominated by the Opal industry. These beautiful stones were formed & continue to be formed as the water reaches an impervious level of the rock stratum and over time solidifies to form the opal.

 

THE COOBER PEDY CUP

Kaz had noticed that the Coober Pedy Races were upcoming when we were in the Flinders, so we thought we might try to see if we could make this coincide with our travels.

This cowgirl pictured with the boys turned out to be a real competitor & whilst she might not have taken home the cup in the big one she did manage to take out the blue ribbon in the barrel races. She was clearly a woman with real spirit & a genuine love of her horses.

 

 

Lake Dadi Sunset - William Ck Rd

ALPHA CENTAURI

We were blessed to enjoy a really fine sunset over the Lake. If you can pick it you can see the Evening Star.

 

WILLIAM CREEK Rd.

By now Kaz was starting to appreciate what we both refer to as “Nothin”. The land out here is barren, it is stark, it is arid; it is also beautiful & spectacular.