117. Sandy Cape Sunset

DUNE WALK


The sun had just set & it was time to head back to camp before the dark of night engulfed us.

The sand is so white, so fine



SANDY CAPE

Sandy Cape lies just north of Jurien Bay. It is a small camp area secluded amongst sand dunes. The dunes in this area are vast & can move up to 20 metres annually. The camp area had a family feel to it. People would be friendly but not overwhelming. Everyone seemed to be in sync with this really great spot. The sunsets in this part of the world are so nice, particularly the afterglow that follows . The lightness that is reflected from the dunes gives a ‘moonlike’ feel.

116. Sandy Cape 2

WA RED CRAYFISH

Dano seen here with our first WA cray. The boys came with me in some pretty rough water to find where these fellas may be hangin’ out. The crays were not as abundant as usually due to the unseasonal warm water. This one was barbequed & drizzled with a garlic & butter sauce; of coarse crayfish must be accompanied with champagne.




ADRIAN

Adrian has worked as a tech arts teacher in some of the states northern schools. I enjoyed yarning to Adrian as he told his story & experiences teaching indigenous kids with his refined methods. Adrian’s philosophy was that if you have them make a table they will start, then probably not show up the next day. However, if you show them how to make a knife using a cache of old files he had access too, then they will see the task through. Along the way he would show them how to use the file for other woodwork projects that the tool was designed for. His knowledge of the land & its people within the region made for interesting banter. The piece of tree that you see will be made into a bush walking stick which Adrian has kindly offered to donate to the Carty Boys Foundation. We watched him make one for his brothers pending 60th birthday present. After he dressed the branch with a knife, smoothed the edges, applied some sealer then attached some binding to the handgrip, the result was a rare specie, lightly coloured, very strong, timber bush stick. Adrian reckons they are great for aiding the bushwalker to remove webs, branches & snakes from the trails

115. Sandy Cape

SHARKS V DRAGONS

Monday night footy & no reception. After a little recon we found that we had some coverage at the top of this ridge overlooking Sandy Cape. We are 3 hours later than eastern time so kick off was 4.30pm local time. The mighty sharks beat the dragons. Whilst on tour & when in range we love to tune in via the internet & listen to the radio call of the footy.




POINEERS MARKERS

These rocks were assembled in the late 1800’s to guide the ships that were to frequent the coastline from Perth to Geraldton.




SANDY CAPE SUNSET

What a beaut place to enjoy the sunset.

114. The Pinnacles - Jurien Bay

GC IN PINNACLE LAND

I remember watching a television series some years ago whereby the Scottish comedian Billy Connelly travelled the circumference of OZ on a trike motorbike. Billy is a pretty out there guy & decided that he should strip off & prance stark naked through the pinnacles. I still laugh when I recall his long curly hair bouncing upon his head supported by a nude torso.




TIGHT FIT

If you do make it over here; do disconnect your van.



JURIEN BAY

We arrived late evening & to the full moon rise.

113. The Pinnacles

THE PINNACLES

We almost missed the turnoff for this rare natural wonder. We arrived just prior to sunset which turned out for the better as I would imagine that it would be extremely warm in the middle of the day.




ANCIENT LIMESTONE

The pinnacles that we see today are the result of millions of years of evolution. Originally this landscape would have been a massive sand dune. Rains would fall upon the dunes to slowly permeate to the base of the dune. As the water passed, it would drag the heavier limestone deposits to the base to form these pillars. Over time the sands have shifted to reveal one of nature’s longest produced sculptures.



MATT IN PINNACLE LAND

There is a designated track to which you are to drive along. Apart from that you are free to roam around these ancient pillars or observe from the specially designed observation decks.

112. Mandurah, Kurtis & Luke, Yanchep

MANDURAH RIVIERA

The developers here, have done something that we had not seen before. The man made canals had been constructed to imitate the waterfront of the French Riviera. The difference with canal front living in Mandurah is that the tide variances are only on average 700mm. This means that the waterfront facility including boat berthing can be done virtually at waters edge.




KURTIS & LUKE

We were fortunate to be able to catch up with these boys whist moving northward via Perth. They share the same condition as Dane & Matt. The boys hit it off straight away as did Kaz & their wonderful mother Sara. It was good to finally catch up with Sara & I think Karen enjoyed discussing their experiences & each sharing each other’s thoughts.

You are fine young boys; stay well & special thanks for allowing us to stay at your Yanchep escape.




YANCHEP GUARDIAN

Just north of Perth & just out of the built up region that surrounds any city is Yanchep. A seaside village with a few shops, a surf club, a pub & King Neptune. This fella is massive !. He overlooks the Indian Ocean & that’s about all I can tell you about how or why he is there.

111. Mandurah

MANDURAH MAORIES

This lovely couple were only too happy to let the boys clamber over their beloved Harley.



WHO EVER SAID – “ITS A MANS WORLD”

Whilst travelling up north last year we met up with Bruce & Rayleen. There a great couple & love getting onto the magnificent Mandurah waterways.



MANDURAH BOTTLENOSE

Our skipper for the day Bruce, almost guaranteed that we would see dolphins & he didn’t let us down. This is a vast estuary & until recently had just the one opening to the Indian Ocean. The result was silting & stagnant waters in the upper reaches. Approximately 15kms south of Mandurah ‘the cutting’ was formed. This is a canal that is probably 800 metres wide that connects the estuary to the ocean. The result is a continual flush with clean sea water. The dolphins that inhabit this area, along with all the other fish species is testament to the success of this venture. It is only my personal opinion, but sometimes the overall advantages of such a project can far outweigh any minor disturbances that the Greenies, at times, dig their heels in for. Thanks Bruce & Ray for a great day; great to catch up with such lovely travelling buddies.

110. Busselton

BUSSELTON PIER

Probably the most famous landmark in Busselton is the pier. Actual length is 1.9 odd kilometres making it the longest pier in the southern hemisphere. We took the train to the underwater observatory situated at piers end & guided tour.




UNDERWATER OBSERVATORY

At piers end the water depth is a mere 8 metres; this is of course why the pier is so long in the first place. In recent times after years of lobbying, the local Council helped fund this magnificent observatory.



BUSSELTON

Busselton is another jewel of the south east region of WA. Turquoise waters, white sand, friendly locals, & still a layback lifestyle that one finds away from city life.

109. Margaret River 2

THE BERRY FARM

Today was the day when Kaz & I were to celebrate seventeen years of wedded bliss. After a cruisy morning & a visit to the local aboriginal art gallery we had lunch at The Berry Farm. This is another of Margaret Rivers fine dining venues. We enjoyed a great lunch accompanied with our beautiful sons & some fine Nashi Pear Champagne.




THE CHOCOLATE FACTORY

Who could deny the boys a trip to The Chocolate Factory. Margaret River is abuzz with so many interesting & beautiful places. There are cheese shops, venison farms, cafes, a multitude of wineries, breweries, farmers markets & a splendid coastline. Although very south, this region comes under the influence of the “Leewin current” which is a warm water current that originates in the far north of the state. The result is that when this current is active it provides warm water along with species that have travelled with it such as tropical fish etc.



MB

As a young bloke I would spend at least six if not seven days a week with Martin. We swam together, attended nippers together & did all the young bloke things together. Matins family moved to the Gold Coast when we were about fourteen. We caught up a few times after that but our lives drifted apart. Martin then left the Gold Coast to travel with his girlfriend Amy. They arrived in Margaret River & have never left the place. Martin always was & still is an accomplished surfer & bike rider. These days his passion is to ride through the forest trails on mountain bike & surf Margaret’s big breaks. At 47 y.o he surfs 15 –20 ft waves; not a bad effort mate. After thirty three years it was so good to catch up & renew the friendship. Marty & Amy are now engaged. Hope we can catch up again sooner than later.

108. Margaret River

COWFEST

Annually there is a parade of cows or mock ups within the local precinct. Here outside Eagle Bay Olives Matt checks out this colourful exhibit.



BIG RED

You cannot leave Margaret River empty handed.



THE MAZE

Another of Margaret Rivers attractions is the maze. There are several mazes the largest occupying over 2 acres. We all had a crack but could not find our way to the centre. Matt whom is one never to be beaten, had a second attempt with some other boys he met. They made their way into the centre but could not find their way back out & had to exit via one of the emergency escapes.

107. Hamelin Bay 2

ISLAND HERRING

We decide to throw a line in just in case something may be enticed by a rapidly retrieved metal lure. First cast & we were hooked up. An hour later & another fine feed of fresh WA herring.



COSY CORNER

Another day & we decide to launch the tinny & head for the isolation of ‘cosy corner’.




LAZY CORNER

Dane seen here absolutely flat out. Shortly after we had a shocker & sunk the tinny whilst relaunching into the surf. As they say; “relax – go boating”

106. Hamelin Bay

RAY FEEDING

Kaz was a little apprehensive but soon came to see that these guys were really gentle. They would monster the fish frames whilst only just nudging into your shins and / or wrists.




MORE RAYS

We continued the feeding for some time then decided to take to the water ourselves.




THE ISLAND

A short boat ride & you are onto what we referred to as “The Island”. We had the entire place to ourselves for some fishing, swimming & a little footy.

105. Gloucester Tree - Hamlin Bay

JANE

Kaz enjoying the last part of the climb.



HERRING FOR DINNER

Hamlin Bay was to be a one night stop over. We stayed for four & had we stayed any longer may never have left the place. Hamlin Bay is right at the bottom of the south west tip of WA & now you find the Indian Ocean meeting the Great Southern. I could write about this place for ages, it is just so good. Dano & I set up for another species we had never targeted before; Herring. You can catch them via the relatively conventional method of bait drifted below a float, however for a bit more fun we decided to troll lures. Bingo!, we found a good spot & within a few hours had a fine catch. These fellas are great for young anglers & are truly a sensational fish to eat. As one local said, ‘If they were rare, you’d pay $80.00 per kilo. Well done Dano.



HAMLIN RAYS

These majestic animals were more than happy to take a few fish frames. For a wild animal that is as big as the car bonnet & weigh in excess of 150kgs they are so gentle.

104. Brockman Sawpits - Gloucester Tree

BROCKMAN SAWPITS

In 1972 forestry workers stumbled across these windows to our pioneering history. A local pastoralist employed convict labour to harvest the lands timber to construct farmhouses, sheds & outbuildings. Once the men cut the tree with axe & saw, horse or bullock teams would drag the massive trunks to the sawpit to process the timber into pieces suitable for construction. The convicts would dig a trench 7 metres long, 1 metre wide & 1.2 metres deep then drag the trunk into position. The man on the top would lift the saw then the man in the pit would pull down to create the cutting stroke. The man in the pit would often be knee deep in mud & would sometimes wear a sugar bag placed over the head to prevent sawdust entering one’s eyes. Having camped overnight just metres away, I can say that the men would have enjoyed the tranquillity of the forest, but crickey, what a hard day’s work !

GLOUCESTER TREE

The tree was dowelled with rods to facilitate a climb to the top so that sentries may observe the outbreak of fire within the forest. The tree bears the name ‘Gloucester’ after Lord Gloucester, the then Governor General opened the tree earlier last century. Lord Gloucester was amazed by the workmanship & the skill of the men whom had undertaken the construction. Kaz & I decided to have a crack & scaled this 60 metre high monster.


NEVER TOO OLD

At first it is a little scary, but it’s good to blow out the cobwebs every now & then. This is about 2/3rds the way up. From here there is a superstructure built around the trunk that houses a rigid platform that before the use of helicopters & spotter planes was used to observe the outbreak of fires within the park.

103. Denmark - Pemberton

DENMARK VEGE SHOP

As Dawn would say, ‘let’s go & do the shopping’. Kaz & Dawn collected some cucumber, lettuce, corn, tomatoes, zucchini & farm fresh eggs. We toured the entire farm & really enjoyed the experience. Thanks for the stay & good luck with the sheep.



VALLEY OF THE GIANTS

The south west of WA is the wettest area of WA. In the summer it rarely rains but throughout the winter they receive on average one metre of annual rainfall. The ‘Karri’ tree is endemic to the south west as are the ‘Tingle Trees’. The valley of the giants is one particular area where the Karri reigns supreme & there are some huge specimens to be seen. A suspended walkway takes you from ground level up to & above the tree tops.




GIANT KARRI

The largest Karri had a circumference of 30 metres. Unfortunately people would park their old utes & comby vans within the hollowed out section which eventually killed the tree. Although they are giants they like most plants have delicate root systems & don’t like being driven over.

102. Albany - Denmark

ALBANY COASTLINE

The coastline is a combination of lush grassed hills that meet white sandy beaches & rugged granite cliffs & boulders. Albany itself is situated on a massive bay. Within the bay are several islands, many home to migratory birds, some of which will fly from Siberia to escape the deep freeze of the northern winter. Albany’s coastline is rugged, inhospitable & extremely beautiful. Plants grow & you stop & wonder, how does anything thrive in such an environment; & here magically, it does.



DENMARK

We left Albany a little late & nightfall came upon us. This is something we prefer not to do. It is harder to spot camping places & the wildlife can be a problem on the roads. After a bit of a look around some tracks we came across a farm gate & with no other options pulled up for the night. We would normally seek permission first but tonight we just had to hope the owners would be understanding. As it turned out, Dawn whom is a local councillor arrived home late after a council engagement / dinner. After she got over the shock & we explained the situation she was great & invited us to come up & have a look around the property the following morning.

DENMARK ACRES

Dawn & husband Tony run beef cattle on their magnificent coastal farm. The property comprises 300 acres of cleared pastures that surround over 1000 acres of virgin bush. Dawn has also just began farming a few sheep, mainly for some fresh meat for the family. Their home is built from timber off the land as well as masonry walls constructed from earth quarried on site. Tony’s family have lived in the area for over fifty years & they share & respect the knowledge of the traditional indigenous people.

101. Bremer Bay - Albany

LITTLE BOAT HARBOUR BEACH

The wind was howling from the south east as it had been for several weeks; fortunately Bremer Bay has several bays & inlets that face various directions. We toured about town & found this secluded bay that was sheltered & provided a fine place for an afternoon swim.




BREMER BLACK BREAM

The Black Bream are a feature of the river systems of the south west of WA. ‘Breaming’; as it is known is a quiet pastime that requires in the first instance fresh bait, the correct rig, picking the right spot & a little skill. We caught these beauties in about one meter of water. They bite well when they make the commitment, put up a terrific fight for their weight. They are a known table fish in these parts & I hope to be able to spend some more time on the water to target this species. Matt is only new to ‘breaming’ & did a great job both catching & landing these feisty fellas.



ALBANY WHALE STATION

We moved ever westward & had to stop in Albany. This is an historical town, its heritage being the major town for whaling which took place up until the early seventies. The shark cage was used to protect divers that would inspect the oil lines that ran from the boats to the processing station. With all the whale oil lingering in the bay it was common for hundreds of Great Whites to frequent these waters.

100. Esperance 2

LUCKY BAY

This is the flagship beach within the park. Along this coastline you notice that there are several windmills very close to the shoreline. It still amazes me that you can find such an abundance of fresh water so close to the sea. We returned to base & enjoyed some local shark for dinner. Esperance is a township that supports local produce from seafood, to eggs, to vegies & the like. It is a town that you feel is happy to exist to an extent off its own back. The shops close at 5.00pm & there is not much open on Saturday arvo & definitely not on Sunday. It would be nice to come back some day & see that this aspect has been maintained. We are about to leave for Bremer Bay some 400kms westward, a small coastal town that will see us pretty close to Albany & ever closer to The Margaret River region & Perth.



CAPE LEGRANDE NATIONAL PARK


The pride of Esperance are their beaches. Speak to the locals & you can sense their pride; & why not, the beaches are pristine in the true sense of the word. Forty odd k,s east of Esperance is Cape Legrande NP. Granite peaks that have been smoothed over by the weather sprout from the thick heathland below. The landscape is thick with massive bottlebrush, hakea & flowering groundcover. The beaches are of sand that resembles the consistency of flour rather than sand & is squeaky clean. We drove onto Lucky Bay beach & the tyres sounded like they do when you do tight turns in shopping centre carparks.

Matt had just enjoyed a dip at Hellfire Bay.





FRENCHMAN PEAK

This is one of the higher peaks within the park & has a huge cave at the top.